Año de vinos: Blessed!

Tuesday, January 1, 2013 12:00:00 AM Categories: Artículo De Vinis
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Joan Gómez Pallarès - De Vinis 01/01/2013

La historia de hoy es el símbolo de lo que será una buena parte del año nuevo para mí. Un año de intensa dedicación a los vinos, de dar vueltas por España descubriendo o redescubriendo las botellas que más me interesan, que más me gustan, que me cuentan historias sobre las personas, sobre las tierras y sus uvas. Tengo el tiempo, tengo la oportunidad, no necesito pretexto. Voy a intentar escribir un libro sobre algunos de esos vinos y lo voy a hacer a mi manera: carretera y manta. "On the road again". Seleccionando y recopilando mis notas de años, concertando citas, yendo a los sitios, pisando viñedos y bodegas, charlando y bebiendo con quienes hacen los vinos, personas y paisajes, clima y uvas. Para mí, no hay otra manera. Y salga lo que salga al final, sin duda en este caso, lo más interesante estará en el camino. Puede que este cuaderno se resienta un poco y que la periodicidad de los posts no sea la habitual. Pero intentaré explicar las cosas que vaya conociendo durante este viaje y, de hecho, el cuaderno se convertirá, más que nunca, en el de un viajero a la búsqueda de vinos y sus comidas.

He hecho ya unas pequeñas "previas" antes del gran periplo, que empezará en febrero. Entre ellas, algunas gallegas y canarias. Porque se trata de eso, de un periplo: salir de Barcelona hacia el sur y recorrer España en el sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj, para terminar en Barcelona de nuevo. Y como cualquier periplo que se precie de ese nombre antiguo, será un viaje también personal. Algunas cosas se contarán aquí, otras en el libro y las terceras se quedarán en mi zurrón. La historia de hoy, como les decía, es un pequeño símbolo y un buen aviso para mí: la planificación tiene que existir, por supuesto ( de otra forma, me arriesgo a encontrar no pocas "puertas" cerradas...), pero siempre hay que dejar tiempo y margen mental para la improvisación, para saber reconocer la sorpresa cuando salta, para seguirla y dedicarle el tiempo que se merece, el que sea. Así sucedió con Fernando Luengo y el viñedo de los Frontones (a 1700 msnm). Y así sucedió, también, con la bodega y los viñedos de Pablo López Betancort. Quien conozca Tierra de Frontos y a Pablo pensará que no hay casualidad aquí: Pablo, entre otras cosas, es el enólogo de esa bodega de la DO Abona. Pero yo no llegué a Pablo a través de Fernando. Fue precisamente al revés. Cuando estuve en Tierra de Frontos ¡no sabía que Pablo era su enólogo!

Mi primer día en Tenerife. Había quedado con los amigos de Hoya del Navío (qué otra sorpresa tan agradable...) a media tarde y tenía unas horas por delante. Coche y a improvisar. Pensé en Tegueste, que no estaba en mi ruta inicial. Desde Santa Cruz podía haber llegado por varios caminos y al buen tuntún decidí hacerlo por El Portezuelo. Iba tan tranquilo por la carretera cuando, de golpe, veo un letrero en lo alto: "Camino de los viñedos de Tegueste". Volantazo a la derecha, literal, y para el camino. Delicioso y mínimo, apenas dos coches, serpentea por los viñedos de ese valle privilegiado y bastante olvidado. Hice todo el camino (unos 3 km) y llegué a Tegueste. Ya iba de vuelta hacia el norte, demasiadas casas y urbanización, y decidí dar marcha atrás. Solo entonces, a la vuelta (también imprevista) y desde esa perspectiva, pude ver un viñedo espectacular: de vegetación preciosa y exuberante entre sus calles, de cepas de cierta edad y suave pendiente mirando al océano y al noroeste. Paré en una cuneta y mientras leía un letrero en la cancela (Finca Ecológica Mederos, Vinos Blessed: ¡caramba, no conocía de nada el nombre!), para un 4x4 enorme en medio de la carretera y alguien me pregunta: "¿buscaba usted algo"? ¡Era Pablo!, uno de los socios de Blessed y quien lleva al 100% tanto los viñedos como la vinificación.

Después resultó que Pablo era, también, el enólogo de Tierra de Frontos y muy buen amigo de Tagalguén. Pero el encuentro había sido tan afortunado para mí como lo he contado. Puro azar, entre comillas. Estaba claro que teníamos que encontrarnos...El nombre que llevan sus vinos, en inglés, Blessed, no es más que la traducción del adjetivo Afortunadas, lat. Fortunatae, las islas que la diosa Fortuna ha bendecido con un clima y una situación geográfica de privilegio. Al cabo de unos días, pudimos quedar con Pablo, charlar, pisar sus viñas y beber sus vinos. Pablo es un hombre muy formado (en Madrid y en Burdeos) que decidió plantarse en los 40 con una bodega propia y unos vinos en la cabeza. Irán llegando, no tengo la menor duda: como toda la gente que he conocido en Tenerife y La Palma, transpira emoción, ilusión, dedicación íntegra. Vive, con su familia (¡las etiquetas de los vinos son de sus hijas!), por y para el vino. 5 Ha y media, por ahora, cultivadas en ecológico, sin pesticidas, sin abonos químicos, con levaduras naturales. Lo que da el viñedo es lo que uno encuentra en sus escasas 4000 botellas (en estos momentos, bajo la DOP Vino de Calidad de las Islas Canarias). Hace un vino muy interesante y complejo con uva forastera de La Gomera (Los Cascajos, a 1050 msnm), de personalidad arrolladora, redondo, terpénico, ácido y suave al mismo tiempo, manzana y pera. Hace también un tinto con barrica que, en mi opinión, subirá de interés a medida que vaya incorporando variedades locales (la tintilla y la baboso irán ganando protagonismo, seguro). Y hace, sobre todo, un verdello 2011, que me pareció el más interesante. Con maceración prefermentativa en frío, con fermentación espontánea, con trabajo sutil de lías (tres meses en inox) y con una malolática completa (diría). Fuerza y acidez sin ningún añadido, volumen impresionante, es un vino que, en boca te llena y ocupa por completo. Un vino que juega con la oxidación rápida de esa uva y que demuestra la sabiduría de Pablo porque juega con ese elemento a su favor. Muy redondo. Un ejemplo a seguir.

Las Islas Afortunadas deben su nombre a la traducción latina, Fortunatae Insulae, de una expresión griega que se popularizó, en español, como Macaronesia. La palabra procede de la unión del sustantivo griego, "nêsos", isla, y el adjetivo "makários". Las Islas de los bienaventurados, de los felices, de los afortunados, "Makárôn Nêsoi", son las islas, en la mitología griega, donde las almas que han hecho el bien reposan. Yo he empezado mi camino de este año novísimo en ellas, lleno de paisajes, vinos y personas, y espero que su espíritu me acompañe. Me siento, por supuesto, "makários" avant la lettre y deseo que todos ustedes lo pasen tan bien como sea posible. Y si es en la mutua compañía, mejor que mejor.

Joan Gómez Pallarès - De Vinis 01/01/2013

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